It feels cliche to say no Oman itinerary is complete without a visit to the desert - if you are only a short way into planning your trip you many think the Sultanate is all desert. Far from it. But there is something magical about Wahiba Sands in Oman.
I could never get enough of watching the sun sink between the ochre dunes, spending time with the gentle people who live here and embracing the opportunities for adventure. This and so much more makes it worth visiting.
I can't wait to tell you more about Wahiba Sands or Sharqiya Sands as it is also known.
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About Oman's Wahiba Sands aka Sharqiya Sands
Why two names? Sharqiya Sands is the historic name for the desert. 'Sharqiya' translates to 'East' in Arabic and so the name quite literally means 'Eastern Desert'. The distinction is important because to the West is the vast Empty Quarter desert, which is shared with neighbouring Yemen, Saudi Arabia and the UAE.
Wahiba is actually the name of one of the nomadic tribes that has lived here. During the 20th Century the Royal Geographic Society were on a research project in the area and met the tribe. They took it upon themselves to name the desert after them and it stuck. Of course, the desert already had a name, Sharqiya, and some Oman's will correct you.
Today the desert is inhabited by 3,000 Bedouins, but there's no permanent settlements once you've driven more than 10 minutes into the desert from Bidiyah or 20 minutes from Al Wasil.
Hop on Google Maps now. Wahiba Sands can be easily spotted from space because its 200km long and 100km wide dunes run in lines from North to South thanks to the prevailing winds.
Arguably this makes it very easy to navigate. Go one way or the other along a valley and you will eventually find your way out. However, after dozens of trips to the desert, including a full crossing from Ghalat in the South to Bidiyah in the North, I would caution against underestimating Wahiba Sands.
How to visit
Here are your options for visiting Wahiba Sands from Muscat:
Public transport
Oman isn't famed for its public transport system but it is possible to get from Muscat to Wahiba Sands using Mwasalat Buses.
There is one bus a day from Burj Sahwa Bus Station (Google Maps link) to Al Wasil, Bidiyah and Al Wasil (no.55). The journey takes between two and a half and three and half hours depending on your destination and leaves before 9am.
There is also a bus from the Burj Sahwa Bus Station or Muscat International Airport to Al Kamil (no.36). This travels the coast road and takes five hours.
Things to be aware of:
- There is one return bus on each route each day, usually in the afternoon.
- You will be dropped at your destination in the hottest part of day when a lot of shops and cafes will be closed. Be prepared with lots of water.
- Make sure you arrange a meeting point with your guide or camp host that is close to your bus stop.
- At the time of publishing this guide, it wasn't possible to buy tickets online so you have to visit a bus station.
Book a tour
Day tours and overnight desert experiences are available
from Muscat. These take the hassle out of your trip if you don't want to drive yourself or reply on low frequency buses. Most tours include a cool off at nearby Wadi Bani Khalid too, which I'd highly recommend.
Self drive
If you have a car, visiting Wahiba Sands is really easy from Muscat. This is how we did it every time.
Take Route 15 out of the city to join Route 23 just after Fanja. This excellent highway cuts through the Hajar Mountains including two tunnels before you drop down onto the plains at Ibra.
Tip: we have often circled back on ourselves at Ibra to visit the large Lulu Hypermarket (Google Maps link) on the opposite side of the highway to pick up food, water and camping supplies. There are other smaller supermarkets in towns on the edge of the desert but you'll find more fresh food options and outdoor gear at Lulu.
Until you reach Al Wasil, Bidiyah or Al Kamil (all entry points for desert camps) you will be fine in a two wheel drive vehicle.
If you intend to drive off road you will require a 4x4 or a guide with a 4x4 to meet you once you reach the edge of the dunes.
Most camps will happily charge you an additional fee to pick up from the main road. If you have no off road driving experience I would suggest taking up this offer. Even experienced off road drivers can get stuck in the shifting sands.
The Bedouin road from Al Wasil
Tip: enquire about the price of being picked up from the main road when you book your accommodation as it can make a considerable difference when you are comparing desert camp prices.
If you have your own 4x4
If you’re an expat with your own 4x4 then we recommend weekend trips with Guide Oman. These are group drives through the desert with all your food and water included and plenty of support from off road desert experts. Just bring your camping gear.
Be aware that this is an adventurous off road activity rather than a scenic tour. We have gotten stuck and damaged our cars multiple times while on these weekends but there's always someone to help you out. And no, they don't cover your repair costs. If you don't own your vehicle or hate the idea of damaging it, this is not for you!
There's a series of group driving events between September and March each year, mostly in and around Wahiba Sands. Find out more on Instagram.
What to do in Wahiba Sands
The list of activities to do in Wahiba Sands is longer than I anticipated before our first visit. Seeing the sunset is an absolute must - I always feel emotional. Make sure you find a spot as high as you can go (apologies to your thighs) and settle down for one of nature's greatest shows.
If you're an early morning person try to also catch the sun rise. As long as there isn't much morning haze, the view is just as impressive.
Here's some more things that you might want to try:
- Sand boarding - your camp is likely to have boards you can hire or borrow
- Dune bashing with a guide - your camp can organise this. It's great fun and there's no worries about damaging you vehicle
- Desert safaris with your own vehicle (see Guide Oman above)
- Camel rides - your camp can organise this.
- Stargazing - as long as the moon isn't full you'll be able to see shooting stars aplenty
- Hot air balloon rides - pricey and there's always a risk of a hazy morning, but this is a once in a lifetime opportunity
- Quad biking - there are a few companies offering this. Check with your camp if there's one closeby
- Day trip to Wadi Bani Khalid for a refreshing dip in the turquoise waters of this mountain oasis.
How many days do you need?
I'd recommend keeping your visit to the desert short and sweet, especially if you are staying under canvas without air conditioning. One night is ideal in these circumstances.
When we have been wild camping as part of a Guide Oman trip we have stretched it to two nights because we had the relief of an air conditioned car during the hottest part of the day.
If you are booking a camp for more than one nights and intend to relax there during the hottest part of the day - which is between 9am and 4pm in the exposed desert landscape - opt for somewhere with air conditioning. Sleeping in traditional Bedouin style tents or modern bell tents is a wonderful experience overnight but stifling in the day time.
Another option is to do a trip to Wadi Bani Khalid during the day. Our favourite post desert plan is to visit here before driving back to Muscat for the evening.
More tips for visiting Wahiba Sands
Here are some more tips based on our personal experience:
- The main season to visit the desert is between November and March. It is possible to visit in the shoulder months of September, October, April and May but temperatures can be in the mid-40s during the day and camps without air conditioning are unlikely to be open
- Bring Factor 50 sun screen and reapply it regularly
- Wear a hat and long, light clothing. It might be tempting to wear shorts and a vest but modest clothing is still appreciated by the locals. Read more about what to wear in Oman
- It's also useful to have a scarf or a snood to protect you from sand blowing in your face on windy days
- If you are visiting between October and March you need to bring layers for the cooler evenings. It's surprising how much the temperature drops at night. Proper jumpers and a pair of socks are a good idea in December and January.
- If you are driving into the desert, make sure you fully fuel your vehicle before leaving the main road and take more water than you think you will need. There are convenience shops and fuel stations in Al Wasil, Bidiyah and Al Kamil.
- Take a bag to collect your own rubbish and that left by other people. Sadly littering is an issue.
Where to stay - desert camps in Wahiba Sands
I can highly recommend staying the night in the desert. There are a huge number of options from simple camps offering traditional hospitality to luxury resorts with spas and restaurants.
Here's the places we have stayed and loved:
Bader's Camp - an authentic desert camp
We have been to Bader's Camp countless times with friends and family. What keeps us coming back? Very simply, it's Bader and his traditional Omani approach to hospitality.
The accommodation is Bedouin-style tents for couples as well as family groups and shared shower cubicles with western style toilets.
The camp is located away from the road and a good distance into the desert so your view of the stars isn't obscured by the lights of Bidiyah.
Dinner and breakfast are included. Bader can arrange camel riding, dune bashing and a creepy crawly nature walk in the mornings.
Read my full review of this Bedouin desert camp.
Contact Bader direct for rates for your family group or book online.
Desert Retreat Camp - Bedouin tents and private bathrooms
Our very first night in Wahiba Sands was spent at Desert Retreat Camp. We wanted starry skies and huge dunes, and it delivered on both. As a bonus we could also bring our dog.
Desert Retreat Camp is a larger camp with an oval of traditional goat hair tents, each with a private open roof bathroom. Tents can accommodate up to two people each (no extra beds are available) and your stay included dinner and breakfast.
It is located in a wide valley next to a huge dune which is perfect for sand boarding and viewing the sunset. Be warned, the climb to the top is hard work on your thighs.
Check prices and availability for Desert Retreat Camp.
Desert Nights Resort - a hotel standard luxury camp
If you want to experience a night in Oman's Wahiba Sands desert but can't do without a few luxuries, like air con, Desert Nights Resort is an excellent choice.
Even the cheapest room feels well put together and the resort staff, while not exclusively Omani, are incredibly friendly and attentive.
Add to this a Balinese spa, licensed restaurant and a variety of different cuisines on offer, and we could have easily stayed longer than the one night I usually recommend for desert stays.
Read our full review of Desert Nights Resort.
Check prices for Desert Nights Resort direct with the hotel for the latest offers, or on booking.com.
Here are some more accomodation options in Wahiba Sands.
Wild camping in Wahiba Sands desert
You can wild camp anywhere in Oman as long as you are out of sight of permanent homes and not on a road way. This makes Oman a brilliant destination for adventurous travellers.
We have spent many nights wild camping in the desert and loved every minute - even if it involved hours of de-sanding our equipment afterwards.
If you want to do the same, I have some tips for you:
- Refuel and top up your water supplies before to enter the desert.
- Never camp alone. If you get stuck or your car breaks down you could be in trouble. There are also poisonous snakes and scorpions in the desert, although they are easy to avoid.
- Pitch your tent away from vehicle tracks and use your car as a barrier from any potential traffic, particularly at weekends when Omanis come to drive in the desert.
- Also avoid pitching next to bushes - this is where desert critters (nice and not so nice) live
- Put a light on your tent so it can be seen at night.
- Take all your rubbish to the big skips in the nearby towns. Don't bury or burn it.
Where next?
These are some of the places to visit after your stay in Wahiba Sands. Click on each image to find out more.
Before you go, check out my latest guides to Oman
- Bedouin desert camp in Oman - an authentic Wahiba Sands experience
- Wahiba Sands in Oman - travel tips and experiences not to be missed
- Review: Valley Cliff Inn, Nizwa family villas
- What to buy in Nizwa Souq
- Places to see between Muscat and Nizwa
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