Beautiful but deadly! Well, not today, but if you decided to attack Nizwa Fort four centuries ago you’d have been greeted with boiling hot date juice being poured on your head followed by a long drop down a man trap.
That’s not to mention canon and musket fire from the two metre thick, 34 metre high walls.
It is the thought of these gruesome endings that puts an extra skip in my children's step each time we visit. We've been to Nizwa's Fort and Castle a few times and really enjoy the insight they provide into Oman's history and culture.
But aside from stories of medieval Omani warfare, why is Nizwa Fort worth visiting and why was it such an important stronghold?
Nizwa was once Oman's capital city
Nizwa has been Oman's capital on more than one occasion and has was named as the Capital of Islamic Culture inn 2015.
Nizwa Fort is actually a fort alongside a castle. The castle came first and was built by Imam Salt bin Malik Al Kharusi who ruled Oman in the 9th Century AD.
The circular fort was built by Imam Sultan bin Saif bin Malik Al Yarubi in the 17th Century. It took 12 years to construct and is the largest fort of its kind on the Arabian Peninsular.
Its thick walls were designed to withstand anything the Imam's foes could throw at it. Meanwhile the troops inside targeted their enemies through concealed rifle holes and murder holes over entrances.
If anyone was brave enough to enter the fort they were confronted by double man traps. First boiling date juice was poured over attackers. Then, those canny enough to break through the thick wooden doors would immediately come up against pit falls.
Inside the seat of Oman's historic leaders
The castle was where the Imam, a political and religious leader, held court. And the fort was the stronghold for a dynasty that threw the Portuguese out of Oman in the 17th Century.
Climbing the zig-zag staircase up to the ramparts for 360 degree views of the city and Hajar Mountains, it's easy to understand why the Imams fortified this spot.
The plateau around Nizwa is full of bountiful plantations. And beyond there are the jagged mountains which make a surprise attack near impossible.
In the castle below you can explore a maze of rooms including the Imam’s accommodation with secret passages onto the streets of Nizwa, reception rooms, kitchens, coffee making rooms and a prison.
You can even see the Imam's bathroom compete with bath and walk over those man traps - both fascinating for kids.
Two vast date stores hold this important fruit with a dual purpose. It was both a calorific food source in times of siege and a weapon. Date sacks were piled on top of each other and the juice that oozed out was stored in jars to be heated up and poured on attackers.
The lowest point in the castle is also where you can find an exhibition about Oman's culture and history.
There are cabinets full of Omani silver, documents sharing the observations of early western explorers and a timeline showing the development of Oman's civilisation alongside those in Africa, Asia, the Americas and Europe.
Outside the castle there is a large walled garden with crops, goats, oryx and a camel - everything the Imam would have needed to sustain his court.
There's even a traditional, animal-powered, well so the fort had its own water source.
What we initially thought was a lovely swing is actually a traditional harness for climbing and harvesting the date trees.
Allow at least two hours to visit
And more if you come on a Friday when there are live demonstrations of traditional Omani sword dancing, halwa-making and crafts.
You can also easily visit Nizwa Souq and Nizwa goat market on Fridays.
Be aware that the fort and many of the shops and cafes in the souq close at lunchtime on a Friday. They reopen later in the day after Friday prayers and a period of traditional family time.
More tips for visiting
- Most of the fort is open to the elements, so come preferred with cool, loose clothing, sun cream and hats. Flat shoes are easiest for walking around.
- Wear conservative clothing that covers knees and shoulders.
- There are lots of steps, so if you are visiting with small children who are unable to walk themselves bring a child carrier rather than a push chair.
- Keep a close eye on children at the top of the fort and castle roof as there are lots of place they might fall.
- Card payments are accepted for entry to the Fort but bring some cash to pay the ladies selling perfume, rose water, crafts and honey and laban-covered Omani bread.
- There are bathrooms with Western-style toilets in the Castle but bring your own toilet paper and dispose of it in the bin.
- There is a cafe in the fort selling hot and cold drinks, cake and ice creams. We also love Athar Cafe which overlooks the fort and is not far from the entrance.
When is Nizwa Fort open?
The Fort is open from 8am to 8pm Saturday to Thursday and from 8am to 11.30am and then 1.30pm to 8pm on Fridays.
What is the admission price?
When we last visited the admission price was 5 OMR per adult, 3 OMR for children aged six to 12. Children aged under six can visit for free.
There is a reduced entry price for Omani nationals. Check the latest prices with the Fort.
How to get there
Nizwa is an easy one hour and 45 minute drive from Muscat. Take Route 15 out of the city and enjoy driving gradually upwards between the mountains.
Free parking is available in the Nizwa Souq car park (Google Maps location) a short walk from the Fort.
You can also get a Mwasalat bus (route 54) from Muscat to Nizwa. A return bus ticket costs less than 4 OMR per person.
There are two buses a day each way on this route and the journey takes about three hours in each direction. This would be a good way to reach Nizwa if you intended to explore more in city but not for a day trip.
If you want to visit other sights outside the city you will require a taxi or guide with a vehicle.
More things to do in and around Nizwa
You can easily spend a day exploring Nizwa Fort, the souq and the winding streets of this ancient city with their UNESCO Falaj irrigation system. Take a golf cart tour to save your legs.
Outside Nizwa we can recommend visiting Oman Across the Ages Museum for more insights into the Sultanate's history, culture and economic development.
Further afield see Misfat Al Abriyeen, Jebel Shams, the ruins at Tanuf, Al Hoota Cave and Bahla Fort. Spoiler alert! I actually prefer Bahla to Nizwa Fort!