The road to Oman's Green Mountain is not simple, but there's plenty of rewards for travelling it. If you're wondering why you should include Jebel Akhdar in your itinerary, how to get there and where to stay once you've climbed 2,000m above sea level, I've got an abundance of tips for you based on our visits.
But before the good stuff, I'd like to thank you for visiting Oman Wanderlust and also encourage you to join our Facebook group Oman Unpacked. It's a community to get even more personal recommendations from visitors and expats who love Oman.
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Why visit?
Jebel Akhdar is somewhere to get a glimpse of Omani's not too distant, pre-oil past. The Hajar Mountain range was where a war for the right to rule Oman raged in the 1950s, where villagers have farmed terraces clinging to cliff-sides over millennia and you can see evidence that these mighty limestone mountains were once part of the sea bed.
It's also somewhere you can experience more comfortably in the summer months as the temperature tends to be 10℃ cooler than at sea level.
Visit to explore abandoned and living mountain villages, see the pomegranate and rose growing season, hike with canyon views, wild camp in the cooler climate or stay at some of Oman's most luxurious hotels.
How to get to Jebel Akhdar
Jebel Akhdar can only be visited with a 4x4 vehicle or all-wheel drive. This means you will either need to drive your own, hire one or book a driver with a suitable car.
Self drive
We have explored much of Oman under our own steam and always recommend this if you are a confident driver. Oman's main roads are excellent. It's just some of the local driving styles and going off road that you need to be more cautious about.
Read my guide to driving in Oman for more information.
The journey from Muscat to the Saiq Plateau at the top of Jebel Akhdar takes two and a half hours by car.
Take route 15 to Qarut al 'Ulya where you need to turn off to Izki. Continue to the town of Birkat Al Mouz and follow signs to the Anantara and Alila hotels which will point you to the police check point at the bottom of the mountain road.
It is only possible to drive the steep and winding road to the Saiq Plateau with a 4x4 vehicle or AWD with 4x4 mode. The road is modern and tarmaced but the gradient is not suitable for two wheel drive cars, especially during the descent. There are several escape lanes and they have seen use.
At the check point (Google Maps location) have your ID, like a passport or Oman residence card, ready to be inspected by the police along with the tax details for the vehicle. This is known as a mulkiya and is credit card-sized. Car hire companies should show you the location of this when you pick up your vehicle. They're usually found in a card holder in the dash board or the glove box.
The police will also want to know how many people are in your vehicle as they count visitor numbers.
Take a tour
It's possible to book shared tours with pick ups from nearby Nizwa or in the city of Muscat.
Check prices on Get Your Guide or contact my travel partner, The Travel Design Company, which can arrange your tour with a local guide.
Hire a tour guide or agency
If you prefer to take a private trip to have some control over your itinerary, get a quote from a government approved tour guide.
A note on travel sickness
If you suffer from travel sickness, and even if you don't, be prepared to feel a bit queazy going up and down Jebel Akhdar. You ascend very quickly on the winding road so, at the very least, expect your ears to pop a few times.
I've suffered with a horrible headache after driving up with a cold which meant it took a while for the pressure in my middle ear to equalise.
If you suffer with travel sickness sit in the front of the car and keep your eyes up. And if you have medication for this you might want to take it.
What to do in Jebel Akhdar
The Green Mountain is a place to escape the heat of sea level Oman, enjoy a luxury retreat or adventure through the surprises of its hidden landscapes.
Here are some of the must see places and experiences I suggest:
Visit Wadi Bani Habib
Wadi Bani Habib is an abandoned village that you can visit from the Saiq Plateau.
This collection of crumbling mud dwellings clings to two sides of a valley where walnut and pomegranate trees grow. It’s quite a challenge following the green way markers that guide you around the ruins but absolutely worth it.
This is the location of the car park (Google Maps location) from which you take a set of steps down into the valley.
Read more about Wadi Bani Habib and Oman's abandoned villages.
Have coffee at The Suwgra
Dating from the same period at Wadi Bani Habib, The Suwgra is an ancient mountain village that has been preserved by the families who used to live there.
It is open to visitors between 9am and 4pm. There is a minimal entry fee. While here you can have refreshments in Anat Cafe, meet members of the Al Shereiqi family and hear their story.
If you can fit in a stay at the inn I can highly recommend it. Find out more about The Suwgra.
See Diana’s Point - the free version
Made famous by Princess Diana when she visited Oman in 1986, this Jebel Akhdar view overlooks the hanging terraces of Al Ain. You can also see fossilised sea creatures in the rocks below your feet.
This isn't the exact point at which Diana stood - that is within the private grounds of the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort just metres to your left. But you get a very similar vista for free.
You can find the free view point behind Layali Al Jabal Restaurant. We have visited this Iranian restaurant several times and can recommend it for a delicious buffet or al a carte lunch.
Sit on the roof terrance for a great view.
Rummana pomegranate festival
If you are visiting Jebel Akhdar between the beginning of July and end of September you are right on time for the pomegranate season.
Rummana is a festival that takes place at Janaen Farm (Google Maps location) where there are pomegranate orchards.
As well as picking your own fruits and making fresh juice, you enjoy art installations, a fun fair, petting zoo and buy pomegranate inspired gifts.
Visit at night to experience the festival at its liveliest.
Where to stay in Jebel Akhdar
From one of the world's highest luxury resorts to activity hotels for families and one of the most unique places we have ever stayed in Oman, Jebel Akhdar has accommodation for all tastes. That's not to mention the option to bring your own abode and wild camp on Jebel Akhdar.
dusitD2 Naseem Resort - great for families
This four star resort has family suites, a swimming pool and an adventure park with high ropes.
It is located centrally on the plateau, 25 minutes drive from The Suwgra, 20 minutes from Wadi Bani Habib and 5 minutes from Diana's Point.
Check rates for dustitD2 Naseem Resort.
The Suwgra - stay in a mountain village
If you want to experience one of Oman's most unique places to stay you have to book The Suwgra. This 500-year-old village has been updated just enough to make it a comfortable stay while retaining all its old world charm.
Your hosts will lay on the best of Omani hospitality and delicous traditional home-cooked meals. It really will be a highlight of your time in Oman.
Read my full review of The Suwgra and check availability.
Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort - Oman's highest luxury hotel
Before we moved to Oman I was searching for documentaries about this Arabian gem and stumbled upon an episode of Amazing Hotels featuring the Anantara.
It is extraordinary with a price tag to match. Think private pools, uninterrupted canyon views, paired with sumptuous suites and service to match. Friends who have been rave about it, so if you are planning to push out the boat during your tour of Oman this is the five star, super luxury resort in which to do it.
Check availability at the Anantara Al Jabel Akhdar.
Sahab Resort and Spa - canyon views on a budget
I'm sad to say we didn't stay at the Anantara, even when there were summer deals for residents. Instead we opted for one of its neighbours, which gave us the same mountain sunset for a more pocket-friendly price.
The Sahab Resort and Spa has rooms for couples and families (with beds for everyone) all bordering a central communal pool that faces the terraces of Al Ain.
We found the staff attentive and the food to be very good. This hotel is also licensed so, if you would like sundowners, drinks are available.
Check availability at Sahab Resort and Spa.
Wild camping on Jebel Akhdar
As well as staying in hotels on Jebel Akhdar, we have wild camped in a large space specifically designated for leisure. The Jebel Akhdar camping area is set back from the main road where you can picnic or pitch a tent with canyon views.
Here's where to turn off the tarmac road to pick a camping spot:
Several camping spots are marked on Google Maps, but poor weather conditions may change their suitability with each season. You might also find popular spots have already been taken so leave yourselves plenty of time to explore and find the right space while enjoying the views.
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More tips for visiting Jebel Akhdar
Here's some more posts packed with tips to help you plan your Oman itinerary:
Where next?
Before you go, read my latest posts
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