How to visit Suwgra heritage inn on Jebel Akhdar
If you want an authentic Omani experience then a trip into the Hajar Mountains to see the traditional villages is a must. The Suwgra is an ancient village on Jebel Akhdar that you cannot only visit, you can also stay at its heritage inn.
In this post I’m sharing our experience of visiting The Suwgra, what it was like to stay a night in this 500-year-old mountain village and how you can do it too.
But before the good stuff, I’d like to thank you for visiting Oman Wanderlust and also encourage you to join our Facebook group Oman Unpacked. It’s a community to get even more personal recommendations from visitors and expats who love Oman.
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About Suwgra
The people of Suwgra Village, which was named after a local tree, planted their roots on Oman’s second highest mountain half a century ago. They settled in this spot because the valley offered them shelter in caves on the cliff face and a source of water in the valley below.
The cooler climate on Jebel Akhdar also made it easier to grow crops and rear animals than in the desert plains around the mountain range.
Over the centuries the villagers built homes into the cliff face and lived a remote life.
A brief history of Suwgra
In the 1970s Oman began a period of rapid modernisation.
The Government of the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said reached out to the people of Suwgra and other mountain villages, bringing them healthcare and the opportunity for education. Children were helicoptered out of the village to attend school for a month at a time in the city of Nizwa below.
In 2004 a road was built to the west side of the valley.
Then in 2007, the village was connected to the power grid and a cable and basket system was installed to carry large items across the gap. Until now donkeys had been the main mode of transport for belongings and goods.
In 2009 the villagers began to build house on the west side, giving them easy access to the outside world. And by 2014, they had all left their traditional homes.
But this wasn’t the end for Suwgra.
The Al Shereiqi family stepped in to save the village and in 2016 opened it as a heritage inn. Their mission is to help visitors step back in time to better understand Oman’s traditions while enjoying the beauty and tranquility of the place.
The inn started off with just two refurbished rooms. Today there are five rooms and three multi-room suites as well as a cafe for day visitors.
Visiting Suwgra mountain village
If you are staying in Nizwa or elsewhere on Jebel Akhdar it is possible to visit Suwgra to see the village up close and enjoy the views.
It is essential to have a 4×4 car to drive up Jebel Akhdar. Royal Oman Police will stop you at the check point at the bottom of the mountain road to check your vehicle registration documents. You should also have your passports or Oman residence cards with you.
The last 4.5km of road to Suwgra has been cut from the mountainside. It is a dirt track with steep drops and is narrow in places. Drive cautiously and be prepared to give-away to on coming vehicles.
When Suwgra comes into view on the right take a moment to appreciate its location under the overhanging cliffs. It’s quite amazing.
There is a parking area at the end of the road. When we arrived mid-afternoon there were only a few spaces left.
Suwgra Village is open to visitors between 9am and 4pm. Entry costs 1 OMR per person or 5 OMR for a family group of up to 10 people.
While there you can meet members of the Al Shereiqi family and hear their story.
I’d also recommend stopping for refreshments in the Anat Cafe.
If you enjoy The Suwgra you should also visit Misfat Al Abriyeen, which is an hour from Nizwa in the foothills of Jebel Shams. The road to Misfat is accessible with a two wheel drive car, making it easier to reach.
If you’d like to see villages that have been abandoned – Oman’s ghost villages – Wadi Bani Habib is also on top of Jebel Akhdar and the village of As Sab is at the end of the Jebel Shams Balcony Walk.
What to expect when staying at The Suwgra Heritage Inn
Visiting Suwgra and admiring it for an hour or so is only half the experience. Staying at the inn is the best way to appreciate its rich heritage and unique charm.
After parking across the valley from the village we watched our bags travel across the void using the small cable car.
There is no cable car for people. So we had to stomp down hundreds of steps to the bottom of the gorge where we paused for a photo opportunity (and our breath) at the bridge which is connects the paths when the river is flowing.
When we reached the inn reception we were greeted by Hilal who offered us coffee, fresh dates and pomegranate grown here. He later told us he was one of the children helicoptered to Nizwa for school. He joked that it wasn’t as ‘VIP’ as it sounded.
Hilal and his extended family manage each aspect of The Suwgra. From cooking the traditional Omani breakfast and dinner included in your stay to making the furniture and offering guided tours in the area. And it is all done to an exceptional standard.
They also work hard to maintain the tranquility of the village and have rules for visitors so that everyone can enjoy the place as is intended. More on these rules in a bit.
Can you stay at Suwgra with children?
Speaking of tranquility…children and quiet don’t often go hand-in-hand. But families are welcome at Suwgra.
We have now stayed twice: once as a group of eight adults and six children, and a second time while visiting with our children and parents. There are suites suitable for families with two to three rooms with their own seating area and private bathroom.
The Al Shereiqi family ask for children to be well supervised. This is not just to minimise the amount of noise they make.
There are lots of uneven steps and long drops from balconies and view points. You must keep any eye on young children at all times.
We were super conscious of noise while were staying, but our hosts were very understanding when our brood got excited over their card games.
Something that I’m sure parents of teens will be interested to know is: does Suwgra have wifi? And the answer is yes. The internet arrived here in 2017, mainly to help the inn take bookings, but wifi is also available to guests.
Rooms
During our first stay in September our family booked the Al Arsha Suite, which has a double bedroom and two rooms with twin beds.
Outside these there is an open living space with traditional floor seating and chairs, and a private bathroom which is located in a separate building below.
We had a sneak peek at Al Burj room and Al Dak Suite too. All the rooms are decorated using traditional materials with thatched ceilings and the addition of carpets over rock floors. The bare rock face also serves as the back wall in some rooms.
Our second stay in December we booked the Al Dak Suite at the very top of the village.
This has a double room with balcony, a separate small twin room built into the cliff and a separate but private shower room.
The suite is good for families with older children but would not work for those with little ones who might need you or wander in the night as the bedrooms and bathroom are not connected.
There are nets over the beds in the summer and gauze over the windows to protect you from mosquitos and other bugs. You’re also provided with insect repellant for when you sit outside.
Other creature comforts include plug sockets, electric fans, an electric kettle, and teas and coffees. I was impressed to see water in a refillable glass bottle rather than a plastic one. This consideration for the environment is not something you seen often in Oman.
Each room has incredible views. By day we watched swallows skimming over the roof tops and goats daintily climbing down the rocks. After sunset we saw the moon rise over the cliffs. And after a peaceful night’s sleep we watched the orange morning light creep up the valley.
We loved immersing ourselves in the scenery and appreciating the cool, humidity free mountain air.
Food
A buffet dinner and breakfast are included in your stay at Suwgra. You can also request lunch if you plan to extend your visit.
All food is freshly homemade across the valley in the new village and transported across.
In the evening we dined on aromatic meat dishes, rice and Omani bread followed by a deliciously light home-baked sponge cake.
During our stay in December mishkak – marinated meat skewers – were barbecued over the fire pit in the dining area.
In the morning we filled our plates with Arabian scrambled eggs, pancakes and foul medames beans. As it was pomegranate season on the mountain we were also treated to fresh pomegranate juice.
Dinner is served at 7pm and breakfast at 8am.
When we visited, The Suwgra’s online booking system was still being developed. You can book by contacting them direct by phone or email or on booking.com.
Important things to know
The Suwgra has house rules for guests. When staying here you are expected to:
- Respect the place by behaving calmly
- Wear modest clothing – see my guide to what to wear in Oman
- Not pick fruit
- Not litter
- Not drink alcohol or smoke (these are finable actions)
- Not photograph the villagers without permission
- Keep an eye on your children.
Things to do near Suwgra
If you want to experience more than the peace of Suwgra there are plenty of things to do close by:
Hiking from Suwgra
It’s possible to take several hikes from Suwgra. The Al Shereiqi family are happy to guide you themselves and offer several tours.
Visit Wadi Bani Habib
The morning before our stay at The Suwgra we visited Wadi Bani Habib. This is an abandoned village about 10km away.
It’s possible to walk among the ruins and imagine this is what Suwgra would have been like had it not been saved.
While Wadi Bani Habib is crumbling the pomegranate plantations are still farmed and it is a popular place for walking.
See Diana’s Point
Made famous by Princess Diana when she visited Oman in 1986, this view point overlooks the hanging terraces of Al Ain.
You can find the view point behind Layali Al Jabal Restaurant, which we have visited several times and can recommend for a delicious Iranian buffet or al a carte lunch.
Rummana pomegranate festival
If you are visiting Jebel Akhdar between the beginning of July and end of September you are right on time for the pomegranate season.
Rummana is a festival that takes place at Janaen Farm where there are pomegranate orchards.
As well as picking your own fruits and making fresh juice you enjoy art installations, a fun fair, petting zoo and buy pomegranate inspired gifts.
Visit at night to experience the festival at its liveliest.
How to get to Suwgra Village
The Suwgra is located on Jebel Akhdar, two and a half hours from Muscat. This mountain can only be visited with a 4×4 due to the steep tarmac road up to the Saiq Plateau, which is 2,000m above sea level.
When you reach the plateau stay on Birkat al Mauz Road and take a right turn after the dusitD2 Resort. After 5km take a right turn signposted ‘The Suwgra’.
This road starts off as tarmac but turns into a dirt track. After 4.5km you will reach the parking area for Suwgra. Drive cautiously as the road is narrow in places and there are steep drops.
Here is a map showing pins for the parking area and The Suwgra:
Summing up our stay at the Suwgra heritage inn
A visit to Suwgra is a must for anyone who wants to understand the history and culture of Oman’s mountain community. And a stay at its heritage inn offers the perfect blend of an adventurous location, modern amenities and world famous Omani hospitality.
Check availability and book The Suwgra.
Looking for more unique places to stay in Oman? Read my review of Whales Head Camp on Barr Al Hikman.
How was the weather in early December, did hotel provide any kind of heating options?
Hi Mujeeb, the day time temperature on Jebel Akhdar can be as low as 15°C and 4°C overnight. The Suwgra provide blankets for you to wear outside and there is a fire pit at dinner. In your room the walls are very thick – keeping you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. We were not cold in bed but extra blankets were available. If you are planning on spending time in the mountains definitely pack a layers of clothes, long trousers and a jumper for the cooler evenings. We also had woollen hats. I hope that helps.