I can’t lie. I was a bit broken after completing the Jebel Shams Balcony Walk. But it was so worth it.
Hiking along the rim of Oman's answer to the Grand Canyon - by the way, it totally earns this title - is not for the faint hearted. The path is uneven and there are a nerve jangling number of sheer drops. But the views are incredible.
If you are keen to conquer one of Oman's most famous walking routes, then let me tell you about our experience and how you can hike the Balcony Walk too. Oh, and I'm letting you in on the secret of how to find the hidden pool at the end. It's the perfect place to cool off and rest before the return hike.
*This post contains affiliate links*
Follow us on Instagram for more Oman inspiration.
The Balcony Walk is on Oman's highest mountain, Jebel Shams
A bit of trivia: Jebel Shams means 'Sun Mountain. It is the first spot in Oman to see the sun rise. It's also a wonderful place to enjoy the sun set.
The beginning of the Balcony Walk is a three and a half hour car journey from Muscat. For the final hour you must travel up a winding tarmac mountain road with dirt sections.
It is possible to reach the start of the walk with a two-wheel drive car as there is no check point like you'll find at the base of Jebel Akhdar, but I'd recommend going in a 4x4. If it has rained recently the road will be slippery.
The start of the Balcony Walk, also known as route W6, is in the small village of Al Khitaym, 1,900m above sea level. It's well below Jebel Shams' summit at 3,000m, but you will notice a distinct drop in the morning and evening temperature compared to the coast.
The hike takes you along the rim of Al Nakhur Canyon, which is also known as Oman’s Grand Canyon. It’s 4km out and 4km back along the same route.
Jebel Shams Balcony Walk Map
Here's a map of some of there key places I talk about in this guide:
Is it worth it?
If you enjoy hikes, mountain views and a bit of an adventure, then absolutely yes.
As well as the cinematic views down into Wadi Ghaul you can spot Egyptian Eagles soaring on air currents, lizards basking on rocks and goats dancing up and down the seemingly sheer cliffs.
Another attraction of this Hajar Mountains hike is visiting the abandoned village of As Sab at the end.
Like many of Oman’s mountain villages it was abandoned at the end of the 20th Century when the country united and began to modernise. It’s amazing that it was inhabited so recently.
You can still see crumbling houses built on the cliffs and terraces where the villagers grew their food. Today the goats rule the roost.
Behind the village there’s another reward for more inquisitive and adventurous hikers: a waterfall and pool. Although you'll find less water here if it hasn't rained for a while.
Our experience of Oman's Grand Canyon walk
I've hiked the Balcony Walk twice but have to confess only making it half way the first time. The clock and heat were against us.
The second time I went with my family including my then 10 and eight-year-old daughters.
This was a good age to go with them. They were old enough to know not to get too close to the edge and able to follow instructions. We did see families with babies in child carriers but it would be more of a challenge with a toddler who might wander.
The route of the Balcony Walk is easy to follow but it is part of a natural landscape and not paved. Rain and rock falls will change the route.
There are steep drops, narrow parts, uneven paths and rocks to climb around. You'll find a wire safety guard early on in the hike but for the rest of the walk there's just air between you and the bottom of the canyon.
As you look ahead it's hard to imagine being able to navigate the landscape in front of you. The path reveals itself a few meters at a time.
We found the first and last half an hour of the walk was steep. There’s a 200m change in elevation each way.
We completed the 8km round trip in six and a half hours including multiple breaks and more than an hour at the abandoned village of As Sab at the end.
If you're interested in seeing more of Oman's mountain villages check out my posts about Misfat Al Abriyeen and The Suwgra - you can stay at both.
Finding the hidden waterfall
Enjoying the views and feeling a massive sense of accomplishment aren't the only rewards for reaching the end of the Balcony Walk.
We'd also heard there was a hidden pool and waterfall, and were determined to find it. It really isn't obvious and, with so many sheer drops about, you don't want to go the wrong way.
So, here's how we found it....
Once you've reached As Sab continue round to the terraces that were once used to grow crops.
Keep your eyes peeled for a faint trail that goes upwards from here.
It travels a rocky route through trees and over boulders covered in roots.
The path goes through the branches of this low tree. Take a left beyond this.
There are small route-marking flags and dots painted on rocks along the way (see the white dot to the right of my daughter's legs).
This is the final approach before the the pool comes into view.
Take it slowly as this path isn't as well used as the main hike. You should reach the pool in less than 10 minutes from the terraces.
Can you spot me? I am a tiny speck in the water. There was a small trickle of water coming down the cliffs when we were there, but the stalactites demonstrate that this has been a full flowing waterfall over the centuries.
We swam and hung out here for more than an hour. There were quite a few other people doing the walk the same day as us but they either didn’t know about this place or couldn’t find it.
I've pinned the location of the pool on this map:
And here's a visual reference taken from the path before you reach the village. Excuse my finger!
From a distance, it's hard to imagine reaching this niche in the canyon but when you get closer it is very achievable.
What about the Balcony Walk car wreck?
You may spot the parts of a smashed up Mitsubishi Pajero (a Shogan as the are known in the UK) half way along the Balcony Walk.
This accident happened in 2023 when the owner parked the car to take pictures at a view point above and left the hand break off. Don't worry, no one was in the vehicle or hurt when it fell over the edge of the canyon.
Things to consider before your hike
Here's some important things know and to have worked out before you set off:
Planning the best time
The Balcony Walk hike is best started at the very beginning of the day or in the afternoon when the sun is lower. Even at this altitude the midday sun can be very hot and there's are only a few shady overhangs.
Setting off in the morning means the landscape will have cooled overnight so you don't have baked rocks radiating heat at you. If you set off at sunrise, you can complete the hike by lunchtime, before the temperatures reach their highest. The downside is that you are in the sun for much of the morning.
If you choose to go in the afternoon and complete your walk before dark there is more shade on the path and the temperature will be dropping as you go. However, depending on the time of year, you may not have so long to do the hike in daylight.
I have done the walk twice, once with a friend and another time with my family, and both times set off early. If you want to go all the way to the abandoned village and see the hidden pool at the end of the Balcony Walk you should allow five to six hours.
Where to stay before or after your hike
Whether you are planning on completing the Balcony Walk at dawn or dusk it's sensible to get accommodation close to the start so you can avoid driving the mountain road in the dark. There is no street lighting once you pass Al Hamra.
You also have time to enjoy the sunrise or sunset.
We have wild camped near Al Khitaym - there are a few flat spots on the rim of the canyon which are perfect for seeing the sunset and rise.
If you prefer a proper bed, I can personally recommend Jebel Shams Resort where breakfast and dinner is included. They'll even pack your breakfast so you can eat on the go.
This resort is a five minute drive from the start of route W6. After you finish you must return to the resort for a resorative coffee and cheese cake from Alstromeria Cafe. This is also open to non-residents.
Read our full review of Jebel Shams Resort.
We have friends who have stayed at SAMA Heights Resort which has beautiful chalets and Bedouin-style tents. We know the SAMA brand from staying with them at Ras Al Jinz. SAMA is a 15 minute drive from the start of W6.
And if you are staying as a family Al Khitaym Guest House can accommodate two adults and up to three children in one property. It is also right at the start of the walk. Friends who have stayed here say their host served a wonderful dinner.
Panorama Guest House in the village has also been recommend to us by friends. This has two rooms so suits families or couples.
What to bring with you
The most important thing to bring is more water than you think you will need. This hike is seriously thirsty work. Bring at least two litres per person and more if you can carry it.
As well as water, bring sun cream and some high energy snacks.
When it comes to walking gear, trainers with grip will be sufficient and you'll need a hat. Men can wear long shorts and a t-shirt, while women should opt for cropped walking trousers or workout leggings and a t-shirt.
The majority of people you see on the trail will be tourists but you do need to walk through the village of Al Khitaym at the beginning so covering shoulders and knees respects local customs.
Facilities at Al Khitaym
There is a parking area at the top of the village. Look for signs and flags painted on rocks to guide you to the start of the walk. The friendly locals will also point you in the right direction.
The villagers have water and souvenir stalls at the start of the walk, and have set up a cafe selling canned drinks at a view point early on in the hike. The opening times vary, so don't rely on them. Bring your own essential refreshments.
There’s also honesty toilets (500 baisa/0.5 OMR) in the village and a short way into the hike. These have western-style loos but don't expect too much, especially if there have been lots of visitors.
Final thoughts on the Balcony Walk on Jebel Shams
Completing this canyon-hugging trek is one of Oman's many spectacular outdoor adventures. The landscape is unreal.
You have to be quite physically fit to attempt it because of the uneven path, altitude and exposed nature of the route, and parents should think carefully about whether it is sensible to do with their children. You know your kids best.
Whoever you're trekking with, come prepared with sensible shoes, a hat and that all-important, generous water supply.
If you do hike the Balcony Walk, I hope you find this post helpful.
And if you enjoy hiking, why not try the Sa'al Steps just outside Muscat?
More essential reading before visiting Oman
As well as reading my guides about what you need to know about driving in Oman and what to pack, I can recommend buying the Lonely Planet guide to Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsular.
I bought this before our move here and found it invaluable as an introduction to the country and culture.
Looking for more tips and ideas for your Oman adventures? Here's some of our recent posts:
- Jebel Shams: tips for exploring Oman's highest mountain
- Nizwa Goat Market - Oman's most famous livestock souq
- Jebel Shams Resort - an ideal base near the Balcony Walk
- Jebel Shams Balcony Walk: what you need to know
- How to visit the Daymaniat Islands from Muscat
Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links. If you click on one and make a purchase I may earn some commission. This does not affect the price you pay.