Hiking the Sa’al Steps and Jabel Khoneh
If you are in Muscat and looking for a mountain you can climb before breakfast, Jabel Khoneh and the Sa’al Steps hike are a popular choice.
Also known as the Fanja Steps hike (Sa’al and Fanja are towns on either side of the mountain), the best time to make the ascent is on a winter morning when the weather is cool and the path is most shaded.
Sunset is also an option, when the sun has dipped behind the neighbouring mountains to the west, but you can expect the residual heat of the day to linger and radiate from the rocks.
About Jabel Khoneh
Jabel Khoneh is a peak overlooking Muscat. It’s 545 metres, so small compared to the likes of Jebel Shams, which is the tip top of Oman’s Hajar Mountain range at 3,009m. But it is still a challenge. I felt my ears pop twice as we made the steep climb.
The best time to do this short but challenging hike in Oman is in the winter months. We went in January and began our ascent just before dawn when the temperature was in the early 20s.
Getting to the Sa’al Steps hike
The best way to reach the start of the hike from anywhere in Muscat is by aiming for Sa’al Village and then setting your sat nav for the Sa’al steps start point.
We made the mistake of taking Route 15 to Fanja and then doubling back. Google Maps said this was the quickest route, but what it didn’t show was that once we got off the main road the track was very rough and hard to navigate in the dark.
Going via Sa’al is the most accessible route with tarmac roads most of the way and then a graded section that is suitable for 2WD cars.
At the hike starting point you can pull off road to park. You’ll spot a sign.
The hike
There’s no easing yourself into the hike up Jabel Khoneh. It starts as it means to go on with a step rocky path that quickly reveals views of the town of Fanja to the south.
The path is rough with loose rocks, but easy to spot, even in the dawn light.
Twenty minutes into the 3.6km hike we found the concrete staircase, the Sa’al Steps, which are designed to ‘ease’ the way. If you don’t spot them immediately, they are on the left at a small plateau.
You can see the route of the steps arching along a gully under the neighbouring peak, Jabal Khuwi.
Don’t ask me how many steps there are.
What I can tell you is that by the time we made the top my Garmin buzzed that I’d hit my staircase target 12 times.
Take care on the steps. When it rains this becomes a river, so the concrete has been damaged.
A large chunk at the bottom end had fallen away when we visited and other parts had crumbed to reveal the metal reinforcements.
Also, the steps are not regular in size and some slope downwards, so always watch where your feet go.
The top of the steps doesn’t mark the end of your hike. There is one last ridge to scramble up before the top of Jabel Khoneh.
When you reach the summit the views more than make up for the sweaty ascent, even if you have to share them with a satellite dish. It took us 50 minutes to reach this point with a few breaks for breath and photos.
On a clear day you can see all the way to the linear city of Muscat and the Gulf of Oman in the north and the neighbouring Hajar Mountains in every other direction.
One of the most striking is Fanja Tabletop Mountain to the south.
Directly below the view point, down a sheer cliff, is the village of Sa’al.
You return via the same route. Going down always takes less time, but remember to take care on those uneven, broken steps.
How long does the Sa’al steps hike take
We set off at 6.40am, were back at the parking spot by 8.20am and home in Muscat with a cup of restorative karak tea by 9.15am.
A sign at the bottom of the hike gives you average climb times.
What to wear
Modest hiking clothing, covering shoulders and knees, is most appropriate for adults.
When it comes to footwear trainers are sufficient, but if you have hiking boots these would be even better. Don’t attempt the climb in flip flops.
Bring a small rucksack, and pack some water and a snack. If you are going early in the morning or after sunset take a torch.
More things to do in Muscat
While you are based in Muscat you might also like to visit the Grand Mosque, take a trip to the Daymaniat Islands or check out Snow Oman.
Here’s some more ideas for activities to try in Oman’s capital.
