Standing proud in Oman's Western Hajar range, Jebel Shams the Mountain of the Sun lives up to its poetic Arabic name in every way. At 3,009m, it is the Sultante's highest peak and offers adventurers some of the most breathtaking vistas on the Arabian Peninsula.
Whether you're an avid hiker seeking the thrill of navigating Omans answer to the Grand Canyon or a sunrise junkie looking for the perfect spot to start the day, visiting Jebel Shams is bucket list experience.
In this guide, I'm setting out everything you need to know about visiting this natural wonder, from tackling the Balcony Walk and finding wild camping spots to the less rough and ready places to stay and the ideal times to go.
But before the good stuff, I'd like to thank you for visiting Oman Wanderlust and also encourage you to join our Facebook group Oman Unpacked. It's a community to get even more personal recommendations from visitors and expats who love Oman.
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Getting there
Going by car is the best option for visiting Jebel Shams as there is no public transport up the mountain. You can hire a car or find a local guide to take you.
The highest point you can reach by car is Khitaym village at 1,900m above sea level. From here you can enjoy spectacular views of Oman’s Grand Canyon and start the famous Balcony Walk Hike. The journey to this point takes three hours from Muscat and one hour and 40 minutes from Nizwa.
4x4 or 2WD?
If you’re wondering can you visit Jebel Shams with a two wheel drive vehicle, the answer is yes. BUT it’s not advisable.
The roads to the town of Al Hamra below the mountain are very good. But from here it is best to have a 4x4 because the route becomes steep, windy and there are unmade sections. If it has rained recently the road can become impassable for a standard vehicle.
Best times to visit Jebel Shams
The best time to visit Jebel Shams largely depends on what you're looking for from your experience. The temperatures tend to be 10 to 15°C cooler than in Muscat, but with the thermometer topping out at 40°C between May and September, vigorous hikes are not a sensible idea in summer.
In general, Jebel Shams is known for its sunrises and sunsets - it’s the Sun Mountain after all. Whenever you visit I can recommend an overnight stay to fully appreciate the light falling across the dramatic angles of the canyon.
Here’s our recommendations for different times of year based on the season and average temperatures on Jebel Shams:
Winter
Jebel Shams is busiest with visitors during Oman’s peak tourist season between December and February. This is when temperatures are ideal for hiking the Balcony Walk and to the summit.
Camping under canvas might prove a bit chilly as night time temperatures can drop below freezing. Book a hotel to guarantee a comfortable night and reserve it well in advance as lots of people will be doing the same.
Spring
March to April is the perfect time to do the Balcony Walk if you want to navigate the narrow route with less people around. The mountain temperatures are still comfortable early in the day compared to Oman's northern cities and coast.
We have camped on Jebel Shams at this time of year and the nighttime temperature is ideal - mild but not too hot. You’ll need sleeping bags and jumpers.
Summer
Jebel Shams is one of the places to escape Oman’s searing summer heat between May and September. But the sun is still intense in the middle of that day. Expect temperatures of 30 to 40°C.
Visit now to appreciate the drop in temperature at high altitude and to enjoy the views. Hiking is not advisable as heat exhaustion is a real risk.
Camping is possible, but you’ll not want to be in your tent during the day. Also be prepared for an overnight temperature drop. Pack light layers and sleeping bags just in case.
If you plan to stay on the mountain more than one night book a hotel so you have some air conditioned respite.
Autumn
I have visited Jebel Shams during this shoulder season between October and November. The cooler temperature in the morning and evening is surprising when compared to the heat of the midday sun.
Hiking is possible at the start or end of the day and you’ll find fewer people around ahead of the main tourist season.
If you decide to camp, Spring rules apply.
The Balcony Walk
The Balcony Walk, or route W6, is one of the most famous hikes in Oman and takes you below the rim of Al Nakhur Canyon for a 8km round trip to the abandoned village of As Sab.
The views are unreal. Take a look at Expedition with Steve Backshall (available on BBC iPlayer) if you want to see more. You can also see clips on YouTube.
You obviously don't need to abseil to do the Balcony Walk. If you like to find out more take a look at my full guide to hiking Oman's Grand Canyon including how to find the hidden waterfall for a cool off.
For the even more adventurous you can find a Via Ferrata at the end of the Balcony Walk. Taking a guided tour is the best way to experience this.
Reaching the summit
If you want to reach the the summit of Jebel Shams you must hike the W4 trail. This takes you as close as you can go to the top of the peak, which is actually inside a military base.
I have not done the summit walk but I know from friends that it is a serious challenge for the physically fit.
You must have mountaineering experience to attempt it - it's steep and some sections must be scrambled. The start of the trail is near SAMA Heights Resort and the round trip takes 10 to 12 hours.
Tips for visiting
- While it is possible to visit with a two wheel drive I’d recommend a 4x4 - rain happens out of the blue in Oman and can have a major impact on more remote roads. Find out more in my tips for driving in Oman.
- Check the local news for weather updates and warnings.
- Don’t get caught out by the cooler climate. Wear sunscreen and a hat while outdoors, even in winter.
- If you are hiking in a small group, make sure your mobile phone is fully charged and you have a spare battery pack for emergencies.
- If you are camping, buy water and food supplies in Al Hamra before you start your ascent. There are cafes and places to buy drinks at the top but no supermarkets.
- Take a look at my tips about visiting Oman for more advice about social etiquette, what to wear and visiting during Ramadan.
Where to stay on the Mountain
Unless you want to drive up Jebel Shams, admire the view and move on I'd recommend staying the night to avoid travelling the mountain road in the dark. You'll also be in a prime position to enjoy the sunrise and sunset.
Camping on Jebel Shams
Jebel Shams is a popular weekend camping spot but flat space to pitch a tent is limited. Hiring a 4x4 with roof tent would give you a more comfortable base, especially if you arrive on a busy night.
Just like wild camping anywhere in Oman, you must set up away from the road and can stay up to two nights.
We have camped in this location near the village of Al Khitaym:
It was quite rocky and we had to carefully move a few stones to place our tent on flat-ish ground. There are a few more rock-free spots along the rim of the canyon but these can fill up fast.
Expect to be visited by goats overnight. They are always looking for a snack so pack away food and cooking equipment.
Also, don't underestimate how close other campers are willing to pitch. We prefer to find slightly less obvious places to camp to give us more privacy.
Hotels and guest houses on Jebel Shams
If you prefer a proper bed, I can personally recommend Jebel Shams Resort where breakfast and dinner is included.
This resort is a handy five minute drive from the start of the Balcony Walk.
Read our full review of Jebel Shams Resort.
We have friends who have stayed at SAMA Heights Resort which has beautiful chalets and Bedouin-style tents. We know the SAMA brand from staying with them at Ras Al Jinz. SAMA is a 15 minute drive from the start of W6.
And if you are staying as a family, Al Khitaym Guest House can accommodate two adults and up to three children in one property. It is also right at the start of the walk. Friends who have stayed here say their host served a wonderful dinner.
Panorama Guest House in the village has also been recommend to us by friends. This has two rooms so suits families or couples.
Search for more accommodation options on Jebel Shams.
Things to do on the way to Jebel Shams
The great thing about visiting Jebel Shams is that there's plenty of wonderful places to stop on the way. Here's some we recommend:
Nizwa
It would be rude not to make a stop or even spend a night in the ancient city of Nizwa while in the Hajar Mountains. Once the capital of Oman and a major trading hub, it is packed for of history and Omani culture.
It is famous for its iconic fort, souq and Friday livestock market where you can see people selling goats and cows.
Bahla Fort
I'm going to put it out there and say Bahla is my favourite of all the forts we have visited in Oman, and you can see it on the way to Jebel Shams.
Bahla is a UNESCO Heritage site and a huge place to explore. There is a maze of rooms, staircases and battlements, as well as a pottery where you can throw your own Omani pot.
Al Hoota Cave
This two million-year-old cave is the only show cave on the whole of the Arabian Peninsular. No abseiling is necessary - there's walkways and steps throughout - and it's a good option if you want to getout of the sun.
Find out more about visiting Oman's show cave.
Misfat Al Abriyeen
This traditional mountain village is one of my favourite places to visit near Jebel Shams. It's free to explore the old alleyways and fruit plantations which cascade down the side of a valley.
There are also cafes and guest houses where you can stop for lunch or dinner on the way to your next destination.