One of the most unique places we have stayed in Oman is Whales Head Camp on Barr al Hikman. It's also one of the most remote and getting there is far from straightforward. But if going off grid in a lesser explored destination is your jam then you're going to want to find out more.
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Staying at Barr al Hikman
Barr al Hikman, often called the Maldives of Oman, is 450km or a five hour drive south from the capital Muscat. The journey takes you through the Hajar Mountains, past Wahiba Sands desert and through long dry planes where camels roam and the heat haze shimmers on the highway.
From the town of Mahout, a guide and 4x4 are essential for the remainder of the journey to Whales Head Camp. You could easily get lost or stuck, even if you are an experienced off road driver.
For the final hour or two - it really depends on the tides and recent rainfall - you are in the hands of your guide as you navigate a route from the main road through the ever changing salt flats.
Eventually the ocean appears on the horizon and you bump through the grassy dunes and along the beach to the end of a sand bar between the Arabian Sea and a milky blue lagoon.
Whales Head Camp is the definition of rough and ready. It exudes castaway vibes with a mash up of weathered furnishings and flotsam decor. It isn’t pretending to be shabby chic. This is the real deal.
At high tide the water laps at the wooden steps of the stilted, three-storey whale station. At low tide there's acres of sand strewn with shells and coral to be found. To make the most of your time here, sun block and beach shoes are a must.
Why the name?
This was never really a whale station. But there is a link to the giants of the sea. Several have washed up here and you can see the bones of one at the end of the sand bar.
The accommodation options
You can choose from rooms in the main building or Bedouin-style tents on the sand bar below.
Our group of friends stayed in the tents which come with beds and access to basic, shared showers and toilets.
There's no en-suites, air-conditioning or wifi. In fact there's not even phone signal. It's off-grid camping but with a proper bed and no need to argue over putting up your tent after a long drive.
There are tents for between two and four people.
Something you must bring is your own bedding and towels. If you have bought any other camping gear for your stay in Oman, such as a torch, folding chairs and sun shade then they will come in useful here too.
Food and drink
Stays at Whales Head Camp include breakfast, lunch and dinner served buffet style in an open sided dining area on the first floor of the main building.
There's not much choice but its all good. Expect traditional rice and meat dishes, flat breads and salad. There's also plenty of bottled water, fruit, packaged cakes and crisps available all day.
As for dining out, unless you want to spend at least two hours driving back across the salt flats to the closest town, Mahout, then there's nowhere else to eat or buy food.
Come prepared with your favourite nibbles and drinks for the duration of your stay, and let the owner know of any dietary requirements well before you arrive.
Exploring Barr al Hikman
Barr Al Hikman is somewhere I'd recommend staying for two nights. This allows you time to relax after your journey and enjoy a full day on the sand bar before moving on.
And unless you are an avid kite surfer or bird watcher, one full day is enough.
After a good sleep, we explored the beach at low tide, swam in the lagoon, pumped up our paddle boards and borrowed the camp's kayak. You can also go on a boat trip along the coastline or try kite surfing (summer season only) for an extra charge.
During a previous visit we saw turtles swimming in the lagoon.
When midday came we ate lunch in the shade and then literally hung out in the hammocks below.
After sunset we had 360 degree views of the night sky. We had unwittingly timed our stay perfectly to see a Hunter’s Moon and the Comet Tsuchinshan-ATLAS.
The only heartbreak of our precious 48 hours in paradise was the rubbish on the beach. It’s really bad.
As well as having a few small tourism businesses, Barr al Hikman is a launch point for fishermen. They leave behind plastic canisters, ghost nets, and thousands of white ice bags.
Undoubtably some visitors also leave more than footprints and its all too much to keep on top of for the few small accommodation providers like Whales Head Camp.
If you visit Barr Al Hikman take all your rubbish with you and take more away if you are able.
How to book Whales Head Camp
The camp is open all year round and can be booked direct via WhatsApp. Find the details on Instagram.
Final thoughts
This ramshackle, off-grid camp gives you the feeling of being in the wilderness with just enough comforts so that you're not mistaken into thinking you're auditioning for the next series of Cast Away.
We had the most wonderful time here with our friends. The kids ran wild. We swam. We laughed. We watched the sun set and rise. There were campfire chats, games of rounders and toasted marshmallows.
The only downside is that Barr al Hikman is not the spotless paradise it's sometimes portrayed to be. Having travelled extensively in Oman, this was not a surprise to us but it is still a great shame in a location that is otherwise extraordinary.
Looking for more unique places to stay in Oman? Read my review of The Suwgra heritage inn on Jebel Akhdar.
Before you go, read my latest posts
- Whales Head Camp: castaway vibes on Barr al Hikman
- Hiking the Sa’al Steps and Jabel Khoneh
- Misfat Al Abriyeen - everything you need to know
- What's so special about Wadi Shab?
- Wadi Bani Khalid: is it worth visiting?
Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links. If you click on one and make a purchase I may earn some commission. This does not affect the price you pay.